AUDIO SETUP

WTF · Post by **WTF** » 06 Sep 2006, 8:46 am

2 x 5" Boston Acoustic Front Speaker - 100 RMS
2 x 6x9 Boston Acoustic Rear Speaker - 65 RMS
1 x 12" Nakamichi Subs - 400 RMS

dats da specs of my speakers !!! and like what ive said im planning to get 2 Pioneer Subs ...

or should i stick to my Nakamichi and get a RMS amplifier ? wutcho think

xheartx77 · Post by **xheartx77** » 06 Sep 2006, 5:21 pm

NEO ... im been using both LIL WONDER for my speakers

my unbiased opinion:
* works fine for me ... especially the AMP for 4 speakers is cool ...but the woofers need another more powerful AMP

* but the lil wonder in my friends CIVIC '03 is givin probs ... he got his system fixed n the AMP for the speakers gav up (showing a red light)... he got it replaced wid a new one ... tht too gave up (showing the red light again - speakers not workin then)... he again fixed the first one after repairing it ... n the same prob. again ... sum short circuit happening due to the AMP .... the entire wiring was re-checked many times n it was the prob. wid the LIL WONDER AMP. ..... still donno y

??

about the pics of the AUDIO SETUP ... its a gud idea for a seperate forum
Me (myself) , SUPERCHARGE n WTF can post the pics ... n i'll get my friends (CIVIC) audio setup also

I was still wondering ... wht the DYNAMAT is and wht it looks like ... n wht help ??

@ WTF .. i suggest u to go for the PIONEER SUBS ... they work very nice for me .... its 210 dhs for the 1000w SUB n the tube is for 100 dhs (dono if u'll get it cheaper now) ... these prices r APRIL '06 when i bought them

n yeah 2 PIONEER SUBS will get the perfect sound

I also prefer ABSOLUTE WOOFERS .... its a US brand .... n its on the friends CIVIC '03 ... the woofer is damn powerful ... its double magnet n there's a triple magnet available also .... but the only thing is its damn heavy due to the magnet weight

WTF · Post by **WTF** » 06 Sep 2006, 8:54 pm

wer could i find ABSOLUTE SUBWOOFERS and how much does it cost !!

i went to Naif earlier and i ask for a KICKER Solobaric !! its 450 !!! 1 Solobaric is already enough but the thing is dat !! u need a higher amp

either JL AUdio or Kicker

Post by **Neo** » 07 Sep 2006, 12:38 am

2 x 5" Boston Acoustic Front Speaker - 100 RMS
2 x 6x9 Boston Acoustic Rear Speaker - 65 RMS
1 x 12" Nakamichi Subs - 400 RMS

dats da specs of my speakers !!! and like what ive said im planning to get 2 Pioneer Subs ...

Lil Wonder AMP output
RMS @ 4 Ohms (Watts) 60 x 4
Ur Sub must be 400W Rms @ 4 ohms
So the output to the sub wud be appoximately 120W Rms from the amp since u wud be able to use only two channels.
And the other 120W will not be utilized in the present scenario

If u wanna keep the cost low, get an AMP with 400W Rms output and ensure u have the best Enclosure for the nachamichi, go band pass box if anyone is an expert in it.... the sound will be unbelievable. But the only the specific tuned frequency will be available in a band pass and u will hav marginal improvement in bass.

U have got money go for a single solo baric L5, 12 inches Model S12L5), appoximately 600W RMS and stick with the 2 ohm DVC. So u can run the voice coils in series and have an effective 4 ohm.

Pick a kicker Amp
Try Zx series 750.1
Has an RMS output of 750W @ 2 ohms and since ur sub wud be at 4 ohms the power wud fall into the safe zone below 600W RMS. The improvement wud be tremendous....

Warning : Beware of flimsy price of high end subs, these are due to the fact that they are refurbished. If they use original stuff to fix these subs, then u wont lose pretty much anything. But if they have used 2 quality stuff, ur in for trouble. Dont look at me... 70% of them wud look good even if i check them out. Sometimes hard to say. So buy from authorized dealer and check for warranty.

If ur going for the pioneer sub, try the higher end ones, and please custom build an enclosure instead of going for ported tubes... Unless the tube is build to the volume specification in the manual. No offence xheartx

xheartx77, i thank you for sharing this information, it was helpful for me and anyone who wud be reading this for future use. The dealer (Gulf wireless) was tryin to push me away from the lil wonder amp stating the same problem. I wasnt too sure whether he wanted to push an expensive amp or if was telling the truth. Now we know, dont we....
However, recurring issue wit the same model wit different people?? awkward.

RED Light is Protection mode. which prevent the amp from short circuits and burn outs. I still wud check the wiring using a multimeter to ensure the safety....

Post Pictures of ur Custom CAR Interior (follow the link)
viewtopic.php?p=32161#32161

Xheartx,
I will go in detail about Dampners in the school of car audio soon... how ever simply put, Dynamat is a complex rubber based pressure sensitive heat bondable dampner. It absorbs vibration and converts in into heat. This is like sheets of rubber which can be cut to shape and placed onto the body surface directly. It tries to resolve the stupid noise produced by vibration of panels, Aka resonance or rattling of panels.

Hope u got the idea....

Sorry guys for the long post... this is plaguing me at the work place too..

xheartx77 · Post by **xheartx77** » 07 Sep 2006, 3:17 pm

Neo wrote:
If ur going for the pioneer sub, try the higher end ones, and please custom build an enclosure instead of going for ported tubes... Unless the tube is build to the volume specification in the manual. No offence xheartx

xheartx77, i thank you for sharing this information, it was helpful for me and anyone who wud be reading this for future use. The dealer (Gulf wireless) was tryin to push me away from the lil wonder amp stating the same problem. I wasnt too sure whether he wanted to push an expensive amp or if was telling the truth. Now we know, dont we....
However, recurring issue wit the same model wit different people?? awkward.

RED Light is Protection mode. which prevent the amp from short circuits and burn outs. I still wud check the wiring using a multimeter to ensure the safety....

Post Pictures of ur Custom CAR Interior (follow the link)
viewtopic.php?p=32161#32161

Xheartx,
I will go in detail about Dampners in the school of car audio soon... how ever simply put, Dynamat is a complex rubber based pressure sensitive heat bondable dampner. It absorbs vibration and converts in into heat. This is like sheets of rubber which can be cut to shape and placed onto the body surface directly. It tries to resolve the stupid noise produced by vibration of panels, Aka resonance or rattling of panels.

@ WTF

well the ABSOLUTE woofer cost my friend 950-1000 dhs ... n its placed in a custom made box coz it won't fit in a tube due to its length (double the length of a normal woofer due to the magnet size) n the triple magnet ABSOLUTE WOOFER is around 1600 dhs ... the prices mite hav reduced now as he's got new models also

The shop is in DEIRA ... the exclusive shop for the brand name ... if ur intrested in a visit will get the contact no. for u n the exact location

i was gonna get the ABSOLUTE SUB for my car ... but he told me tht new models were turning up within 3 months (thts frm APRIL) .. so i coudnt wait n bought 2 PIONEER SUBS ... but my opinion the ABSOLUTE woofer really gives out a good bass n it gives a vibration to cars n shop glasses nearby

@NEO
NEO regarding the PIONEER SUBS ... i guess the 1000w subs i own r well placed due to higher RMS on it compared to the 800w n 1200w

n yea the other PIONEER SUBS go up frm 1000w till 5000w

I myself wished i had a attractive lookin bass box instead of the silly lookin tubes ... lookin for a glass box wid neons n stuff ... i wanna hav the looks for the audio setup for the price i've paid

about the LIL WONDER.. im confused about its reliability coz mine iz workin fine but friends aint ... n then every new setup i c has a lil wonder AMP ... atleast to support the speakers if not the SUB

n yeah about the red light on the AMP ... its safe mode

(jus found out) ... but when the red light shows its reccomended to disconnect the cables .. n the system guy checked the wiring multiple times wid the multimeter ...

waitin for the DYNAMAT INFO ... but i got wht u meant ...

long post ... but coudn't make it shorter

dubaistyle · Post by **dubaistyle** » 11 Sep 2006, 8:49 am

hey howz it goin, i decided i will go with the Red top optima battery reason being that the yellow one is a deep cyclye battery and the accord's alternator does not charge it fast enough, i have two options, either stick to the red top optima battery which in this case i am considering, second, get another alternator to power up the yellow top battery, i think i will probably stick to red top coz the setup is only arnd 1800 watts, and the red top battery is acting as a second battery in the boot, just for the sound system, i hope i am fine because apart from the 2nd battery, i have a 5 farad cap which should keep the things running smooth, now im just waiting on the enclosure, its tuned to 30hz, leave me some extra tips which you think might be helpful,thnx

Post by **Neo** » 15 Sep 2006, 4:58 pm

dubaistyle wrote:hey howz it goin, i decided i will go with the Red top optima battery reason being that the yellow one is a deep cyclye battery and the accord's alternator does not charge it fast enough, i have two options, either stick to the red top optima battery which in this case i am considering, second, get another alternator to power up the yellow top battery, i think i will probably stick to red top coz the setup is only arnd 1800 watts, and the red top battery is acting as a second battery in the boot, just for the sound system,

Hey man sorry for the delay in respnse. I am not in AUH anymore.. Hope this message reaches u in time before u install bcoz there is some corrections.

1) Red top is a decent Starter battery while yellow top is starter batter + deep cycle.
2) Deep cycle means using the battery in a setup tat will typically discharge 60% to 70% or more of the battery capacity. Normally ur car batt undergoes 1% to 3% of discharge on normal usage, it is designed to deliver maximum power for a short duration. When an SLI battery is used in a deep cycle application, or in a vehicle with heavy accessory loads, the battery life will be shortened proportionally to how deeply it is cycled on a regular basis.
3) U need to go for yellow top batt and it wont put too much load on ur charging system bcoz it has low internal resistance.
4) Two yellow top on parallel connection would do fine and ur alternator wont have to be changed for the time being.
5) Dont couple the existing normal batt wit the Optima batt... its never a good choice. Dont listen to any fool who wud say doing so it a good idea...
6) U shud use an isolator if ur really planning to use normal battery and optima coz these needs to be charged seperately.

dubaistyle wrote:i hope i am fine because apart from the 2nd battery, i have a 5 farad cap which should keep the things running smooth, now im just waiting on the enclosure, its tuned to 30hz, leave me some extra tips which you think might be helpful,thnx

1) Good Choice on capacitor, 5 Farad wud be really cool. Make sure its a good brand
2) I am not to sure on the tuning of the enclosure ( I guess u were talkin about port tuning to 30 hz). I wud say 40 - 50 hz wud be the best bcoz 30 hz is pretty rare.
3) The extra tips wud be based on ur car model which wud come out of trial and testing.

Hope this helps u...
Proper wiring is important.. dont forget. Dont go down on these wires... Go for a good brand. Plus port the trunk, i mean have a port on the parcel tray so the bass enters the car....

Keep me posted regarding the updates....

dubaistyle · Post by **dubaistyle** » 17 Sep 2006, 7:10 am

hey thnx for the helpful tips, u made it right in time, coz my project just got a lil delayed due to flood of work in the middle. well i cant get the yellow top battery any more coz i already bot the red one, hopefully the capacitor might make up for it, its a Stinger 5 farad capacitor, yeah i made sure about the port already, im pretty much getting my enclosure designed to JL specs in the manual, and i will do a lil more trial and error from the advised specs by JL just to get the optimum bass level right. I didnt compromise on the wires, i will be using StreetWires wires, now it pretty much narrows down to how the wires are laid out, so hopefully ill make sure that doesnt get screwd up. thnx again for the tips. Keep them commin.

where did u move to btw? gettin ur break at business? lemme knw if its nt personal.tc

dubaistyle · Post by **dubaistyle** » 15 Oct 2006, 12:55 am

hey my system is finally finished, after all the testing, hearing, playin arnd and researching, i have made my ideal SQL setup, chk out the pictures in the other topic where u r supposed to post pictures. Thnx to Neo for alot of helpful tips which always gave me a second thought and lead me to researching more stuff and ideal layout. Me and my buddy did the installations and it turned out well beyond my expectations.chk out the pics and lemme knw wht u guys think abt it.peace

newimprovednf · Post by **newimprovednf** » 02 Dec 2006, 12:59 am

hi guys...
I own a Mazda 3 2006 model...
having some problem in selecting audio system

as u saw above in the pic... Mazda 3 comes with built in (moulded or wat ever) head unit... so...

is there any way that i can add a woofer (1000 W) without changing my head unit...

nother problem is can i use the stock speakers with this 1000W woofer

i'm ready to buy speakers... but dont think there is a place to fix em... other than replacing the stock speakers...because the place behind the rear seat are made of some plastic or fibre material...

MAzda 3 comes with 16cm round stock speakers as u can see in the above picture... so will i get a similar speaker which can be use with the 1000W woofer...
wat shud be the wattage of the amplifier for 1000W woofer and 4 matching speaker..

can anyone give me the best config. of woofer..amp..and speakers..

Post by **Neo** » 05 Dec 2006, 12:14 am

Hey bro..
I hav been a bit lazy these days hence the delay in the reply

Couple of questions tat would help me help u!

1) Wat Kinda Budget are we looking at spending on the whole project?
2) The Point is, you dont want to replace the stock HU, but dont mind opening it up to access some wires. right?
3) 1000W can be RMS, or PMPO, the latter is crap... Has no value. Wat do u really want?
4) Are u a Bass freak, if so which type...
1) Real loud, ear drums shattering or (not so nice to hear but very loud)
2) Long Deep bass that sends vibrations thru ur body... (real cool but nite not be loud outside)

Option 1
U cud for a single 1000W amp and a single sub in a ported enclosure.
Note: Good bass guranteed, but the sound quality will not improve and u might miss high frequency and lower mid frequencies.

Option 2
U cud change all the speakers, front and back,
Use quality speakers like Boston Acoustics and plug in a four channel Amp
And use an single 1000W amp and a single sub in a ported enclosure.
Note: Awesome combination, guranteed to make u wonder... is this my car???

Determining the sub and the watts would be based on ur budget....
If ur going over 1200W then i wud recommend a capacitor, anyways u shud invest in decent set of wiring kit...
check the dude above... he done an awesome configuration.. i am waiting to see him and listen to the bass...
Talk to me... we can work this out....

newimprovednf · Post by **newimprovednf** » 05 Dec 2006, 10:56 pm

hey neo... thanx for reply..

1) i can go up to AED1500
2) I dont mind opening panel to access some wires. (hope it wont ruin the looks)
3) i dunno abt these RMS and PMPO... need ur suggestion
4) I'm a bass freak and offcourse Long deep bass

one of my friend who is also a amature suggested this config

1000W JBL bass tube
4x250W sony speakers
1000W Sony amp
and some gud wiring..

hey neo i want to replace the speakers too..
will i get some gud 16cm round speaker. (all mounted on dorrs)

cheers
- n ! n -

Post by **Neo** » 06 Dec 2006, 7:19 pm

newimprovednf wrote:hey neo... thanx for reply..

1) i can go up to AED1500
2) I dont mind opening panel to access some wires. (hope it wont ruin the looks)
3) i dunno abt these RMS and PMPO... need ur suggestion
4) I'm a bass freak and offcourse Long deep bass

one of my friend who is also a amature suggested this config

1000W JBL bass tube
4x250W sony speakers
1000W Sony amp
and some gud wiring..

hey neo i want to replace the speakers too..
will i get some gud 16cm round speaker. (all mounted on dorrs)

cheers
- n ! n -

I wonder why bass tubes are so popular out here... maybe the tubes are available in plenty and people believe its plug and play... lol... (that doesnt include the bass tubes preinstalled wit subwoofer, like the blaupunkts and JBLs)

By the way, bro have u gone thru the thread school of car audio...
I know this mite sound like self advertising and askin u to read thru crap....
Honestly If u have time, go thru it... i had people like u in mind when i prepared it in the first place..

1) 1500 AED huh!!! Yeah I can fit a decent sub and Amp in that range.
2) Dont worry, the people who does the job knows how to do it without a scratch to ur HU
3)RMS and pmpo??? well tryin reading up earlier posts and threads... if it still bothers u... hit me.. i will explain..
4) deep bass... welcome to the club mate... pss... dont tell mike.. he mite bann u outta his league...

JBL bass tube... a one peice unit (I.E the Woofer comes pre installed in the enclosure) YES definitely a positive sign

4 X 250 W sony, a BIG no... check me out... i have got sony in my car and believe me their speakers sucks.... Go JBL or BOSTON if possible.... and listen carefully... COMPONENT speakers.... u wil know the difference once u hear then seperately.... come on dude cough up more cash.. satisfaction guranteed..

1000W sony amp wont do squat... I have a 1400W sony monoblock... and i know wat happens after 20mins of deep bass show.. Enter JBL, the perfect match 4 ur sub..

Good wiring, definitely yes... and say no to those dhs 40 or 50 wiring kits... believe me they dont live upto their proclamations... i had to replace a kit yesterday... yes a 50dhs kit which i had installed only six months back.. i did warn them before... didn listen... now they paid double price...

Think.. and get back to me....
good luck bro...

newimprovednf · Post by **newimprovednf** » 06 Dec 2006, 11:31 pm

thanx neo...
i shall follow what ever u xperienced ppl suggest if it comes within my budget...

and neo dint get answer for one of my question...

will i get good 16 cm round speaker (any brand)..so that i can replace my stock...
because i dont think there is any other place to fix them... behind the rear seat its made of some plasctic or fibre material... so wont be able to cut it...

or do u have any suggestion for this issue

and if i'm not going for bass tube... will i have to make a console for the sub...

and if yes will it come with in AED1500 or will i have to put in more bucks

cheers
- n ! T ! n -

mikeh · Post by **mikeh** » 07 Dec 2006, 3:07 pm

newimprovednf wrote:thanx neo...
i shall follow what ever u xperienced ppl suggest if it comes within my budget...

Wow..that's some proper behaving

Drop 1500 dhs in the help-mikeh-get-boost-charity-fund. It will increase both your moral as mine.

UAE Boost Club

UAE Boost Club

AUDIO SETUP