My Eleanor - UPDATED July 7th, 2013
Moderator:Accord98
- inkedpiercedemo
- UB Senior Member
- Posts:488
- Joined:05 Mar 2007, 6:41 pm
- Vehicle:97 eclipse GSX + 08 LancerEX gt
- Location:KARAMA-dubai
which place did u snap those pics??
front usually more 1 degree negative camber than the rear . sample if you have -1 rear camber , front is going to -2 or more . front wheel drive rule !!Eleanor wrote:Car lowered - 2 finger gap between the tire n Fender, thinking lower(one finger gap) Negative camber on the rear wheels, but i heard its good on the grip- ehh albertho,kenny ?
i hate to go too low on my daily drive too .
kingkenny wrote:front usually more 1 degree negative camber than the rear . sample if you have -1 rear camber , front is going to -2 or more . front wheel drive rule !!Eleanor wrote:Car lowered - 2 finger gap between the tire n Fender, thinking lower(one finger gap) Negative camber on the rear wheels, but i heard its good on the grip- ehh albertho,kenny ?
i hate to go too low on my daily drive too .
thanks kenny for the comments - being waiting ....
the thing is - i still need to go lower especially on th Rear end.
so u mean - the front should be lower than the Rear ?
right now .... their pretty much all equal ... please advice ...
thankyou kenny
SD -
kenny's front wheel drive rule number 2 , front always lower than the rear !!Eleanor wrote:the thing is - i still need to go lower especially on th Rear end.
so u mean - the front should be lower than the Rear ?
right now .... their pretty much all equal ... please advice ...
camber and ride height is 2 different thing , altought adjust the ride high will be also result in camber change . you should setup your ride height first , than setup the suspension .
i remeber ek front toe , rear toe and rear camber are adjustable from stock , the rest is non-adjustable .
i will suggest , get the front camber kit ,so you can get something between -1.5 to -2.0(over -2.0 will eat your tires badly) , reduse negative camber on the rear as much as you can , something -0.5 to -1.0 should be fine .
front toe out something between 0.6mm to 1.2mm , as for you i think no more than 0.9mm , casue 1.2 cost you a lot of tires .
rear toe 0 , or toe out a bit if you like oversteer , but please don't try more than 0.6 toe out , for your own safey reason.
i remeber ek front toe , rear toe and rear camber are adjustable from stock , the rest is non-adjustable .
i will suggest , get the front camber kit ,so you can get something between -1.5 to -2.0(over -2.0 will eat your tires badly) , reduse negative camber on the rear as much as you can , something -0.5 to -1.0 should be fine .
front toe out something between 0.6mm to 1.2mm , as for you i think no more than 0.9mm , casue 1.2 cost you a lot of tires .
rear toe 0 , or toe out a bit if you like oversteer , but please don't try more than 0.6 toe out , for your own safey reason.
well kenny -
i understood whts camber and toe , but im still trying to figure out wht Caster is about .... steering axis tilted forward of rearward .... im not to sure wht the steering axis is about... ill read a bit more n hopefully will get it ... lol ....
SD -
i understood whts camber and toe , but im still trying to figure out wht Caster is about .... steering axis tilted forward of rearward .... im not to sure wht the steering axis is about... ill read a bit more n hopefully will get it ... lol ....
SD -
^^^^ nice info's
just to add
front and rear camber cant be adjust in a stock EK
toe and caster can done... but not the best idea
some mechanic try to push and pull this things in a way that it will damage your bushing ....and only to show you in the monitor and printout that it is done...
but eventually will come back to normal seetings after while
- means your lucky coz
-they havent %#%$ your bushing
-they didnt use that much HP to push and full your suspension screw and under chassis screw
but if not
- then you are in trouble
coz they %#%$ your bushing as well as some screw
i say do it properly get an adjustable camber kit and toe as well
might be pricey but worth saving your wallet than replacing your tires easily.
BTW lowering your car that much will also spoil your front axle
be safe keep it simple and good luck
just to add
front and rear camber cant be adjust in a stock EK
toe and caster can done... but not the best idea
some mechanic try to push and pull this things in a way that it will damage your bushing ....and only to show you in the monitor and printout that it is done...
but eventually will come back to normal seetings after while
- means your lucky coz
-they havent %#%$ your bushing
-they didnt use that much HP to push and full your suspension screw and under chassis screw
but if not
- then you are in trouble
coz they %#%$ your bushing as well as some screw
i say do it properly get an adjustable camber kit and toe as well
might be pricey but worth saving your wallet than replacing your tires easily.
BTW lowering your car that much will also spoil your front axle
be safe keep it simple and good luck
toleg , i'm pretty sure ek caster is non-adjustable , no!? may be my mistake(getting too old now )!! so far , i haven't see any adjustable caster in FWD with STOCK arm . not sure about the ek rear camber ..... usually most front wheel drive , have only front toe , rear toe and rear camber adjustment .toleg wrote:^^^^ nice info's
just to add
front and rear camber cant be adjust in a stock EK
toe and caster can done... but not the best idea
some mechanic try to push and pull this things in a way that it will damage your bushing ....and only to show you in the monitor and printout that it is done...
but eventually will come back to normal seetings after while
- means your lucky coz
-they havent %#%$ your bushing
-they didnt use that much HP to push and full your suspension screw and under chassis screw
but if not
- then you are in trouble
coz they %#%$ your bushing as well as some screw
i say do it properly get an adjustable camber kit and toe as well
might be pricey but worth saving your wallet than replacing your tires easily.
BTW lowering your car that much will also spoil your front axle
be safe keep it simple and good luck
stock suspension bushing is soft and very flexable , i agree what you said , that why we all need a good wheel shop to do the alighment . that why hardcore track guys need stiffer suspension bushs .
don't worry about your caster , cause your have no adjustment .Eleanor wrote:well kenny -
i understood whts camber and toe , but im still trying to figure out wht Caster is about .... steering axis tilted forward of rearward .... im not to sure wht the steering axis is about... ill read a bit more n hopefully will get it ... lol ....
SD -