Reccomendations for Rotors !!!
Moderator:Neo
other things that i would recommend for your new brake setup:
-steel braided brake lines. preferably bridgestone
-hawk brake pads. thats what i use, you may want to use other ones if you wish
-motul brake fluid. again its your choice which fluid you want to use for your brakes.
i think with a combination of proper disks, parts and the above things you should be satisfied with the setup. if you want to go for BBK then it could be really expensive and maybe not feasible for your current setup!!! i am sure you will be satisfied bro
-steel braided brake lines. preferably bridgestone
-hawk brake pads. thats what i use, you may want to use other ones if you wish
-motul brake fluid. again its your choice which fluid you want to use for your brakes.
i think with a combination of proper disks, parts and the above things you should be satisfied with the setup. if you want to go for BBK then it could be really expensive and maybe not feasible for your current setup!!! i am sure you will be satisfied bro
ya toleg, i wasnt sure about the DOT number either, you have to be very careful which DOT number you use apparently. but i am not sure whats the big deal about the DOT. anyone care to explain???
and sorry eleanor i meant you to get the Goodridge Stainless steel braided brake lines not the bridgestone hahaha...my bad
and sorry eleanor i meant you to get the Goodridge Stainless steel braided brake lines not the bridgestone hahaha...my bad
no problem tamu
everyone sometimes do mistake
mostly car nowaday use DOT 4
but some still use DOT not so sure about the mixture but most of the thread I read, suggest not to mix it up..
you can get DOT 5.1 usually use for racing cars... but mcuh expensive than the normal ones
DOT 3
DOT 4
aroung 6-10 aed per bottle 50 ml i think
DOT 5.1 motul or ap racing i got for 60-65 aed
expensive i dunno y...
better not to mix them up okie
everyone sometimes do mistake
mostly car nowaday use DOT 4
but some still use DOT not so sure about the mixture but most of the thread I read, suggest not to mix it up..
you can get DOT 5.1 usually use for racing cars... but mcuh expensive than the normal ones
DOT 3
DOT 4
aroung 6-10 aed per bottle 50 ml i think
DOT 5.1 motul or ap racing i got for 60-65 aed
expensive i dunno y...
better not to mix them up okie
good information....
ill surely go in for the stuff u guys reccommended....
now - i need to know where can i get it from ? toleg ? tamu? albertho? anyone ?
about the DOT - its a code like dexon3 for gear fluid? so how do i find out whats mine ? contact Honda ?
finally - who could Fit this stuff for me ???
thanks u guys...
SD -
ill surely go in for the stuff u guys reccommended....
now - i need to know where can i get it from ? toleg ? tamu? albertho? anyone ?
about the DOT - its a code like dexon3 for gear fluid? so how do i find out whats mine ? contact Honda ?
finally - who could Fit this stuff for me ???
thanks u guys...
SD -
most the car on the street running dot 4 these day , i don't see anywhere still have dot 3 for sale !!
look if you don't track you car , not going to climb or down hill , and you never experience brake fail yourself in your cars , YOU DON'T NEED TO RUN DOT 5 OR DOT 5.1 !!
see , better brake on the rear , in the same case you drift or oversteer even more !!
look if you don't track you car , not going to climb or down hill , and you never experience brake fail yourself in your cars , YOU DON'T NEED TO RUN DOT 5 OR DOT 5.1 !!
in my opinion , your "DRIFTING" thing isn't because you don't have enough braking power !! look pretty much you don't brake properly , or your tire isn't good enough .Eleanor wrote: toleg, i wanted to get some good brakes- more for street Use and quite a few times to use on the track for small autox events in the future.
the other day (this is before i installed my suspension) i speeded up on a short curve, it stuck to the ground pretty well, but after tht curve, i had to stop as it was a T junction, as i did the curve n got back to a small straight stretch, i braked hard, not sudden but really fast, as i did that the REAR or the car did a slight DRIFT, and got straight again when it was at Halt.thats what convinced me to get better brakes..... this was OFF the streets.a near by empty road.
i guess i will go for the stainless steel brake lines etc. like u and tamu suggested, but will it be good for some track events as well ??
So rotors are more of Bling and cooling ? is Rotors and the Disc the same thing ?
so finally what do i do to get RID of those rear drums ?
SD -
see , better brake on the rear , in the same case you drift or oversteer even more !!
yeh - i thinks its my tires.....
the production date on my Continental's are 2002, lol.
they have got a few cracks and are extremly noisy. i gotta get them changed, but as soon as i get the suspension sorted out 1st n a few other things. on tht very day i drifted a bit at a fast halt, my boot was completely empty, i got everything removed for something that i dont remember why...
i think it would be better if i could get albertho's rear disc's, n then upgrage the brake lines and get better fluid. what would u say to that kenny ? i guess i have to work on my braking skills as well.
SD -
the production date on my Continental's are 2002, lol.
they have got a few cracks and are extremly noisy. i gotta get them changed, but as soon as i get the suspension sorted out 1st n a few other things. on tht very day i drifted a bit at a fast halt, my boot was completely empty, i got everything removed for something that i dont remember why...
i think it would be better if i could get albertho's rear disc's, n then upgrage the brake lines and get better fluid. what would u say to that kenny ? i guess i have to work on my braking skills as well.
SD -
2002 !! my friend , never use a tire which is over 6 years old from the date of manufacture , a big no no !! no matter the tire have been use or bank new , the rubber will beome worse from time to time .
i usually change my tires about 3 years , and no more than 35k km .because the side wall become softer and softer over time , and i hate the feeling with a set tire which have a flexible side wall .
forget any upgrade in your mind , first you need a set new tires ASAP !! serious , it is too drangerous for you .
i usually change my tires about 3 years , and no more than 35k km .because the side wall become softer and softer over time , and i hate the feeling with a set tire which have a flexible side wall .
forget any upgrade in your mind , first you need a set new tires ASAP !! serious , it is too drangerous for you .
yeh kenny....
in a week or two. i know its really dangerous, so i try not to use the car often.
just i dont knw wht to change too , now i ride on 195/55 R15
should i get : 205/55 R15, 205/50 R15, or 195/50 R15 ????
stil mixed with this part, if i get thicker, im scared it will scrape the inside as its lowered now ....
SD -
in a week or two. i know its really dangerous, so i try not to use the car often.
just i dont knw wht to change too , now i ride on 195/55 R15
should i get : 205/55 R15, 205/50 R15, or 195/50 R15 ????
stil mixed with this part, if i get thicker, im scared it will scrape the inside as its lowered now ....
SD -
- albertho555
- UB Special Member
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- Joined:05 Dec 2005, 6:41 pm
- Vehicle:B18C Civic HB
- Location:deira
195/55R15 is just fine if you're planning to be SOHC !!
205/50R15 is also fine ... you will not have any rubbing issues with it.
I run 195's daily ... and 205's for the track - no issues on rubbing.
205/50R15 is also fine ... you will not have any rubbing issues with it.
I run 195's daily ... and 205's for the track - no issues on rubbing.
i am running nitto NT 555 195/50 R15 in my lancer , i like it very much , good tires and good price . i went to buy another set 2 mouth ago , but they don't have stock , i tell the guy order for me and i am still waiting for it to come .
they call me to pick up a set last week , but they order the wrong size and it is 195/55 R15 , if you like it , it is 275dhs each .
the shop is at shj , bmw road nearly the shj collenge , oppsite to the DAY TO DAY , there is a shop have a big sign " NITTO TIRES " .
they call me to pick up a set last week , but they order the wrong size and it is 195/55 R15 , if you like it , it is 275dhs each .
the shop is at shj , bmw road nearly the shj collenge , oppsite to the DAY TO DAY , there is a shop have a big sign " NITTO TIRES " .
yup !! but see they aren't have it in stock always , and most the time you need to wait .
by the way , if you check with bridgeston adrenaline , please check for me too , i need 195/50 R15 , 205/55 R16 , 225/50 R16 . please let me know the cost too !!
by the way , if you check with bridgeston adrenaline , please check for me too , i need 195/50 R15 , 205/55 R16 , 225/50 R16 . please let me know the cost too !!
You don't need any fancy slotted or x-drilled rotors.
trust me you don't have enough power, you don't need 20% extra brake force.
Get some good pads (OEM fine for daily driving but not for anything else)
You only need to upgrade the brakes if you have more power than stock (not 20-50Bhp more, but 100Bhp+).
You will be surprised what a set of stainless lines, system flush, good brake fluid and better pads can do. It's a cheaper and more ethical route than just getting upgraded rotors/disks with everything else not addressed properly.
trust me you don't have enough power, you don't need 20% extra brake force.
Get some good pads (OEM fine for daily driving but not for anything else)
You only need to upgrade the brakes if you have more power than stock (not 20-50Bhp more, but 100Bhp+).
You will be surprised what a set of stainless lines, system flush, good brake fluid and better pads can do. It's a cheaper and more ethical route than just getting upgraded rotors/disks with everything else not addressed properly.