Lexus GS300 power loss, jerking and cutting out

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Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 12 Jan 2014, 9:40 pm

Hi Guys!

I bought my first Lexus which is '02 GS300 2JZ-GE 2 months ago. Vehicle was imported from america with minor body damages which have been repaired. Car was running all good but the air bag icon in the cluster used to flash constantly.

It all started couple of days back when i released parking brakes and hit the gas, car didn't respond like it used to but after hitting 10 kph it was normal and i drove to my destination but i was quite uncomfortable due to this. i parked it for 3 - 4 days because of raining and i was bit busy too. Yesterday when i was driving my car to the mechanic for a little check up, car started jerking and shaking and rpm went below 1 and engine check, VSC and VSC off icons popped out of nowhere. He asked me to change the spark plugs. When he unplugged the coils to change the spark plugs there was a hell of a oil in there due to the leakage is head seals. :( It took him quite a long time to open it up and clean it and change the plugs and put everything back on.

when i started the engine it was fine but after 5 minutes cluster lights(engine check, VSC, VSC off) were on and it started shaking again(terribly). It feels like i'm driving a 4 cylinder 1.3L due to power loss. No acceleration. From yesterday til now, I tried replacing coils for like 5 times but it's still the same and i'm totally out of ideas now. I don't know but its starting to turn into a nightmare. I need your help because i bought it thinking this car would last me. i love the car i always get compliments on it but if this car really is just going down the hill i would accept the fact that i'd have to let it go. but if these fixes are not too expensive i'd be willing to fix them all cause i'm thankful of my car that it's still running :(

please if anyone knows how much these fixes are tell me or let me know what might be happening.

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Ozimandius
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Post by Ozimandius » 13 Jan 2014, 1:18 pm

Car looks like it's gone into limp mode to prevent further damage to the car?

Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 13 Jan 2014, 5:46 pm

Ozimandius wrote:Car looks like it's gone into limp mode to prevent further damage to the car?
Thanks for replying :happy:

My mechanic suggested me to take it to the computer test. The problem is i don't kinda trust these computer checks because i still remember, once i took my '09 Toyota corolla for computer checking cause warning light and ABS light were on. According to the results, there were some issues with exhaust sensors and wheels sensors and stuff but you know what... i replaced car's old axle and not a single icon was flashing in the cluster :roll:

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7afe
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Post by 7afe » 13 Jan 2014, 10:11 pm

02 is most likely vvti - 2jz ge obd2 .
Well all i had a similar issue with the 2jz GE non vvti OBD 1. it wouldnt happy rev so i had to open all the plugs and pull all the wires out. And let the heat dry out all the water. Your best interest would be putting some thick paper towels and soaking the water out and let the remaining stay in there for a few days and possibly crank your engine. cylinders will most likely push everything out. You might also want to check your MAF sensor and your air cleaner.
Disconnect MAF sensor and if it runs better then you need to get a new one and might as well put a new air filter.
-Lokz

Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 13 Jan 2014, 11:46 pm

7afe wrote:02 is most likely vvti - 2jz ge obd2 .
Well all i had a similar issue with the 2jz GE non vvti OBD 1. it wouldnt happy rev so i had to open all the plugs and pull all the wires out. And let the heat dry out all the water. Your best interest would be putting some thick paper towels and soaking the water out and let the remaining stay in there for a few days and possibly crank your engine. cylinders will most likely push everything out. You might also want to check your MAF sensor and your air cleaner.
Disconnect MAF sensor and if it runs better then you need to get a new one and might as well put a new air filter.
-Lokz
Hey 7afe bro, correct me if i'm wrong but according to my best knowledge the non vvti version of 2JZ is GTE not GE and this motor comes in aristo and supra with stock twins right ?

secondly, which wires do i need to remove/replace?

soaking the water?? man that sounds hella crazy :S

Actually i was there to check on my mechanic if he's doing all good. we tried cleaning air filter, air sensor and rest of the parts yet everything is still the same but i'll check it one more time :wink:

Thanks alot bro... God bless you :smile:

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7afe
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Post by 7afe » 14 Jan 2014, 10:40 am

Pre 97 were non vvti 2JZ GE. 97+ were vvti 2jz . Older had distributor ignition.. Yours is probably Coil on plug type of ignition. When i had the 2jz ge in my car i poped a radiator hose which sprayed all over my motor and i had coolant in my cylinders because of it. Next day i washed it and i had water in my cylinders. I basically killed it completely. I couldnt rev over 5K RPM and miss firing pretty bad. It revved really slow. So here is what i did

Step 1 :I took out all my spark plug wires and let them sit near my air cleaner.
Step 2: I took paper towels and just stuck them inside each hole where my spark plugs went and soaked as much water as i could.
Step 3: I took out the paper towels and i took spark plugs out ( be careful as spark plugs can get brittle with all the water and break easily when you remove them) ask me how i know :grin: .
Step 4: Let the paper towels sit inside each hole where your spark plugs go and let it sit there for a few days and let it soak everything and then pull your paper towels out and let it sit and dry for a few more days.
Step 5: Put new spark plugs and clean your coils and good to go.

But now i am not saying this is the same problem with your car. I say remove MAF sensor and start the car and see how it does. If it is a lot better then i say change MAF sensor. If its still the same, check your ignition system, if its not that then do cylinder balance test on your injectors.

Yes my methods are long but its all DIY and not meant to beat flat rate by your technician in a garage. In other words yes its longer but its the best way to do it.

GL
-L0kz
Last edited by 7afe on 14 Jan 2014, 1:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 14 Jan 2014, 12:50 pm

7afe wrote:Pre 97 were non vvti 2JZ GE. 97+ were vvti 2jz . Older had distributor ignition.. Yours is probably Coil on plug type of ignition. When i had the 2jz ge in my car i poped a radiator hose which sprayed all over my motor and i had coolant in my cylinders because of it. Next day i washed it and i had water in my cylinders. I basically killed it completely. I couldnt rev over 5K RPM and miss firing pretty bad. It revved really slow. So here is what i did

Step 1 :I took out all my spark plug wires and let them sit near my air cleaner.
Step 2: I took paper towels and just stuck them inside each hole where my spark plugs went and soaked as much water as i could.
Step 3: I took out the paper towels and i took spark plugs out ( be careful as spark plugs can get brittle with all the water and break easily when you remove them) ask me how i know :grin: .
Step 4: Let the paper towels sit inside each hole where your spark plugs go and let it sit there for a few days and let it soak everything and then pull your paper towels out and let it sit and dry for a few more days.
Step 5: Put new spark plugs and clean your coils and good to go.

But now i am not saying this is the same problem with your car. I say remove MAF sensor and start the car and see how it does. If it is a lot better then i say change MAF sensor. If its still the same, check your ignition system, if its not that then do cylinder balance test on your injectors.

Yes my methods are long but its all DYI and not meant to beat flat rate by your technician in a garage. In other words yes its longer but its the best way to do it.

GL
-L0kz
Daayyuuuumm!! somebody messed up really bad i guess...

but thanks again for helping bro :smile:

btw one of my friends suggested me to buy new engine instead of messing with it and wasting my papers on it... will it be a smart move or just another bad decision ?? :roll:

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7afe
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Post by 7afe » 14 Jan 2014, 1:34 pm

Everything can be fixed.
Honestly i fixed my old motor in about a week and i drove another 4-5K miles and i pulled it out.
Swapping motors is not worth it. If i was in UAE i would take about 200-300 dhs and fix your car no problem.
Yes i charge more than your average mechanic does but i know a lot more than them too and i dont play guessing games. Here in US i charge 50 bux just to diagnose your car, thats about 150 Dhs

Here is why i dont recommend buying another motor. First not all 2JZ GE are the same. Sedans are Front Sump and Sports Coupe were rear sump. In other words a 2JZ GE out of a supra or lexus sc300 wont fit your GS300. Finding the right one you might have to ask your mechanic for that. 50 bux to him and your engine is about say 1K dhs and then your mechanic sells it to you for 1100 etc. It will be in your best interest to change timing belt, water pump , front main seal, rear main seal, cam seals, valve cover gasket when your motor is out.

Buying all that and getting it changed I dont know about 500 dhs? In USA i payed more than 500 USD for all this including some extra stuff PCV valve, light weight billet chrome pulleys etc . ALl this was not including labor for me. Did it all at home.

So now you are sitting nearly 2000 Dhs to get all this done and a few 100 bux to swap it in your car.

Total seems about 2500 including items like fluids and misc items and about 2-3 weeks of down time in your car. I am talking the right way of doing a motor swap. You can do it the ghetto way and drive 2 months and keep coming back to fix your car every week. Which is just buy a motor and dump it in the car.
Would you do that or spend 200-300 and getting it done once and for all.
I hate such long posts but thats how you will understand what i am saying and why i am saying.
Dont run from your problems fix em! thats how you will learn.

Pull out your MAF sensor, its right next to your intake airfilter just disconnect the connector and start the car. Also sounds like your engine has a lot of sludge, you need to fix your oil leaks to prevent it from happening again and again. I really cant tell much without pictures or something. I am just going by what you are telling me. Make sure all your vacuum lines are hooked up nothing is unhooked anywhere. Car not idling properly and not happy revving
Air,Fuel, Fire, Combustion. Problem in any of those will cause what just happened to you. So eliminate one by one. MAF sensor then ignition, then fuel system ( injectors pump etc ) Go for it Get it done!
GL
-L0kz

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7afe
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Post by 7afe » 14 Jan 2014, 1:46 pm

Also a note to add: A friend of mine had a BMW which acted retarded in a similar way, yes it took about 3 weeks in the parking lot to fix but it was the ABS module making it act like a retard. So we had to get that serviced and it was a done deal. Not a problem after that. You might wanna look into a few things , i really wished i could see this car in person to help you more than i already can.

Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 14 Jan 2014, 8:27 pm

7afe wrote:Also a note to add: A friend of mine had a BMW which acted retarded in a similar way, yes it took about 3 weeks in the parking lot to fix but it was the ABS module making it act like a retard. So we had to get that serviced and it was a done deal. Not a problem after that. You might wanna look into a few things , i really wished i could see this car in person to help you more than i already can.
Thank you so much brother... you really saved my @$$ big time :grin:

Yes i did replaced the head seals which were damaged and caused all the oil leakage and i also replaced the spark plugs now i'll check my MAF sensor

Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 14 Jan 2014, 8:39 pm

These pics were captured with mobile camera, i hope this will help...
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482467_205540976304026_1731328072_n.jpg

Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 14 Jan 2014, 8:45 pm

*After cleaning all the mess*
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Afro360
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Post by Afro360 » 18 Jan 2014, 9:02 am

hey brother sad to hear about bad stuff going on with you.
I am team leader in BMW service i thought myb i can help you out. just a quick brief your car engine is VVTI? if it is then possible your VVTI adjustment unit is not responding properly. there must b solenoid valve for supplying oil to these units. in bmw when VANOS adjustmnt unit act retart such problem comes up. other than that check your engine control unit sockets for water contamination.
and plz goto a reliable computer diagnostic to get your car diagnosed. Might b just a stupid fault of sensor and you are getting screwed in garages. if not then come to me i hav a simple diag tool lets read out faults in your car. if you like contact me 050-7699252. there can be so many things tht will cause engine light and as my friend said in previous thread its a bit hard to diagnose unless i dont see the condition of your car.

Nooomjzx
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Post by Nooomjzx » 24 Feb 2014, 9:03 am

Sorry for late reply...

Thanks a lot 7afe bro and Afro360 bro. i honorably respect your dedication to my post. the only reason i didn't replied because i was in Saudi Arabia.
while i was there, my cousin took my car to some garage guy for repairs. My cousin doesn't know much about cars specially engine related stuff but as far as he described me, the problem was with vvti sensor and tappet due to the oil leakage or more likely what Afro360 explained.

BUT... car is running smooth as F#&k now and i'm real happy :grin:

Thanks again guys..... God bless you all :smile:

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7afe
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Post by 7afe » 24 Feb 2014, 10:47 pm

Glad you figured it out!
Cheers!



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