Toyota Rav4

ECUs, intakes, turbos, fluids, transmissions, exhausts etc.
David William
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Post by David William » 26 Oct 2012, 10:19 pm

Toyota Rav4 2.0L Auto 5 door x reg 2000
To keep it short, when I bought the car the head gasket had gone and it had been driven whilst the engine was sucking in lots of water (radiator coolant). Now I've had the head gasket replaced, but the engine lacks power (as it did before replacement of head gasket), accelerates well to begin with but once you get to a high rev or under any load(up hill) there is lack of pulling power. The engine revs really well, right up to where it should, when you step down on the accelerator it drops a gear fine and revs up well but just no pulling power. It has been suggested that as coolant was going through the combustion chamber and ultimately out the exhaust (and there were lots of it) then the lack of power maybe due to water damage in the exhaust and becoming almost blocked. Could also be the auto box slipping? She revs well, she wants to go but she don't. Any ideas please?

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Tribal
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Post by Tribal » 27 Oct 2012, 3:25 am

David William wrote:Toyota Rav4 2.0L Auto 5 door x reg 2000
To keep it short, when I bought the car the head gasket had gone and it had been driven whilst the engine was sucking in lots of water (radiator coolant). Now I've had the head gasket replaced, but the engine lacks power (as it did before replacement of head gasket), accelerates well to begin with but once you get to a high rev or under any load(up hill) there is lack of pulling power. The engine revs really well, right up to where it should, when you step down on the accelerator it drops a gear fine and revs up well but just no pulling power. It has been suggested that as coolant was going through the combustion chamber and ultimately out the exhaust (and there were lots of it) then the lack of power maybe due to water damage in the exhaust and becoming almost blocked. Could also be the auto box slipping? She revs well, she wants to go but she don't. Any ideas please?
New Engine. 3SGTE.

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WKZ
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Post by WKZ » 28 Oct 2012, 12:05 pm

David William wrote:Toyota Rav4 2.0L Auto 5 door x reg 2000
To keep it short, when I bought the car the head gasket had gone and it had been driven whilst the engine was sucking in lots of water (radiator coolant). Now I've had the head gasket replaced, but the engine lacks power (as it did before replacement of head gasket), accelerates well to begin with but once you get to a high rev or under any load(up hill) there is lack of pulling power. The engine revs really well, right up to where it should, when you step down on the accelerator it drops a gear fine and revs up well but just no pulling power. It has been suggested that as coolant was going through the combustion chamber and ultimately out the exhaust (and there were lots of it) then the lack of power maybe due to water damage in the exhaust and becoming almost blocked. Could also be the auto box slipping? She revs well, she wants to go but she don't. Any ideas please?
Water/Coolant in head is never good buddy, you most certainly have hydrolocked your motor.This is what you do:
Tribal wrote:New Engine. 3SGTE.
:!:

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7afe
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Post by 7afe » 28 Oct 2012, 2:05 pm

WKZ wrote:
David William wrote:Toyota Rav4 2.0L Auto 5 door x reg 2000
To keep it short, when I bought the car the head gasket had gone and it had been driven whilst the engine was sucking in lots of water (radiator coolant). Now I've had the head gasket replaced, but the engine lacks power (as it did before replacement of head gasket), accelerates well to begin with but once you get to a high rev or under any load(up hill) there is lack of pulling power. The engine revs really well, right up to where it should, when you step down on the accelerator it drops a gear fine and revs up well but just no pulling power. It has been suggested that as coolant was going through the combustion chamber and ultimately out the exhaust (and there were lots of it) then the lack of power maybe due to water damage in the exhaust and becoming almost blocked. Could also be the auto box slipping? She revs well, she wants to go but she don't. Any ideas please?
Water/Coolant in head is never good buddy, you most certainly have hydrolocked your motor.This is what you do:
Tribal wrote:New Engine. 3SGTE.
:!:

You just gave a whole new meaning to "Hydrolock" His car is certainly running well, which means it DEFINITELY is NOT hydrolocked. Hydrolock is when water gets into your cylinders and you end up spinning a rod bearing, bend valves etc, not able to start car, not able to crank etc. If this car is in Dubai i very highly doubt there is even a chance of hydrolock in that place.

I would recommend basic tune up ( plugs, wires, airfilter, timing belt/ chain what ever it has etc) and see how it performs. Maybe run a compression test and see what the engines condition is like.
If you feel your tranny is slipping, you should be able to find one in scrap yards or get it rebuilt.

P.S 3SGTE is just asking for more trouble, that engine has issues with BHG too. May cars built by toyota in late 80's and early 90's have had BHG issues. 7MGTE, 7MGE, 5MGE, 3SGTE. These engines used in cressidas, supras, celica, mr2 etc

Cheers!

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WKZ
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Post by WKZ » 02 Nov 2012, 4:20 am

7afe wrote: You just gave a whole new meaning to "Hydrolock" His car is certainly running well, which means it DEFINITELY is NOT hydrolocked. Hydrolock is when water gets into your cylinders and you end up spinning a rod bearing, bend valves etc, not able to start car, not able to crank etc. If this car is in Dubai i very highly doubt there is even a chance of hydrolock in that place.

!
David William wrote:Toyota Rav4 2.0L Auto 5 door x reg 2000
To keep it short, when I bought the car the head gasket had gone and it had been driven whilst the engine was sucking in lots of water (radiator coolant). It has been suggested that as coolant was going through the combustion chamber and ultimately out the exhaust (and there were lots of it)
Apart from this, its almost impossible to hydrolock in UAE but also depends on your definition of hydrolocking.What you state is the exact definition of hydrolocking but what I meant by 'hydrolocking' is the damage the water must have caused. A buddy of mine bent his pistons and valves due to CAI sucking up water here in Canada(%#%$ massive potholes) and it took almost 2 weeks for the engine to cease. It was not immediate which is why I say he must have damaged his internals.IMO OP should do a compression test to begin with.

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7afe
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Post by 7afe » 02 Nov 2012, 10:37 pm

WKZ wrote:
7afe wrote: You just gave a whole new meaning to "Hydrolock" His car is certainly running well, which means it DEFINITELY is NOT hydrolocked. Hydrolock is when water gets into your cylinders and you end up spinning a rod bearing, bend valves etc, not able to start car, not able to crank etc. If this car is in Dubai i very highly doubt there is even a chance of hydrolock in that place.

!
David William wrote:Toyota Rav4 2.0L Auto 5 door x reg 2000
To keep it short, when I bought the car the head gasket had gone and it had been driven whilst the engine was sucking in lots of water (radiator coolant). It has been suggested that as coolant was going through the combustion chamber and ultimately out the exhaust (and there were lots of it)
Apart from this, its almost impossible to hydrolock in UAE but also depends on your definition of hydrolocking.What you state is the exact definition of hydrolocking but what I meant by 'hydrolocking' is the damage the water must have caused. A buddy of mine bent his pistons and valves due to CAI sucking up water here in Canada(%#%$ massive potholes) and it took almost 2 weeks for the engine to cease. It was not immediate which is why I say he must have damaged his internals.IMO OP should do a compression test to begin with.
Leaking gaskets will one of the less likey things to cause a hydrolock, there will a lot more symptoms showing up before the whole ceasing motor. He is able to start the car and drive it, Very least likely hydrolock will come into picture here again, he is experiencing low power thats all. Maybe new sets of plugs wires, timing belt and ignition timing adjustment and he could be ready to go again.



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