Engine Flush
Where can i take my engine for a cheap flush and what is the safest technique? I have excessive sludge build up in my engine and need to save it from its misery... I hope you could tell me now as my oil change is up and might aswell do it if its fine... I was going around the net about oil and sludge and nobody gives you a precise feedback regarding this... My engine oil cap is dirty with carbon deposit and my fear is its all grown within the engine's inside, i was told my crank case is clean but the engine head has the dirt cuz the last owner was lazy..
I did mine in Fasttrack... Not doing it again because you can only use their own oils... Next one up is BP, I'll bring the castrol gold with me 
.
I think the flush was 300ish... But then again Fasttrack isn't exactly very cheap hehe...
.I think the flush was 300ish... But then again Fasttrack isn't exactly very cheap hehe...
-
grayfox666
- UB Advanced Member
- Posts:1233
- Joined:07 Jan 2006, 2:55 pm
- Vehicle:Volkswagen Tin Can
- Location:Sharjah
Emarat charges 190, they did a flush on the golf and it does feel better after it.
^ i will check with them.. I will visit fast track in Garhoud 2nite... I hope they got a flush machine and i hope they charge 190 bucks.... I use mineral oil and always change it before its time cuz my engine is quite dirty... And i think ill stick to it not shifting to something my engine is not used to..
Is it true they add an extra .5 liter of oil after a flush? and you should drive gently till the next oil change?
Is it true they add an extra .5 liter of oil after a flush? and you should drive gently till the next oil change?
-
AutoMaster
- UB Junior Member
- Posts:30
- Joined:17 Jul 2009, 11:13 am
Just recently I was given the ad of some engine flush. Here is the text. I think it makes sence
_____________________________________________
*cenzored brand name* complex flush is recommended for hot and dusty weather conditions.
Perfect for flushing the lubricating system of gasoline and diesel engines of
all types (including those with turbo) and gear box assemblies. Added into the oil before change.
Removes all contaminations and tar sediments in oil channels and takes them away from the system with used oil. Neutralizes acids. Eliminates the clicking sound of hydraulic valve compensators. «Unsticks» the VTEC systems. Due to *cenzored brand name* restores up to 70 % of the lost metal.
It is used with every oil change as a preventive flushing and anti-wear protection.
Compatible with all oil types. It is also applied as an adaptive flushing when you change the oil of certain viscosity to the oil of different viscosity or different sort (e.g. from mineral to synthetic), or different brand.
Why does *cenzored brand name* contains the *cenzored brand name*?
Every time you change used oil you move away small metal parts which have been abraded from different rubbing surfaces (ring – cylinder, camshaft – pusher, etc.).
Formerly it was an irreplaceable loss for the engine itself and forthcoming repair could be figured out by the number of oil changes. Thus 4 liters of used oil contain about 3 grams of metal. The calculation is very simple. The reason for major repair is the loss of about 100 grams of metal in the engine with working volume 2000 cc. But now due to the invention of *cenzored brand name* it is possible to return up to 70% of the lost metal. That is why *cenzored brand name* formula contains parts of *cenzored brand name*. During the short period of action they have time to find and return nearly all the smallest parts of metal using them as a building material for renewed coating in places of probable wear. Now the lifespan of engine parts will be much longer as they are protected with *cenzored brand name*.
There are three options which are available on the market now for flushing the engine:
-flushing oil
-flushing machine
-flushing additives (5-20 minutes flush)
Why *cenzored brand name* is better than flushing oil? *cenzored brand name* does not destabilize synthetic oils.As you know, flushing oils are mineral-base oils and when you drain flushing oil there's still approximately 100-150ml left in the engine which is enough to destabilize synthetic oil. Flushing oils do not contain *cenzored brand name* which means that 70% of metal which you could return will be drained. You cannot drive on flushing oil. With *cenzored brand name* you can drive up to 1000km without harm to your engine. This means that you will not seat in the waiting room but enjoy going wherever you want.
Why *cenzored brand name* is better than flushing machine?
Flushing machine uses flushing oil (see above). It also takes about one hour of your time. And any educated engineer will say that it is not really right to flush the engine while it is not running. It is a fact that the oil channels open and close at the certain positions of the crankshaft. So flushing machine flushes the walls of the crankcase and oil channels which "happened to be open" but it does nothing to the surfaces of friction and you lose 100% of metal which is in the oil. In addition to that - flushing machine service is very expensive.
Why *cenzored brand name* is better than "5-20 minutes flush"?
Those flushes are based on acetone or acid or dissolvent. It is simple - you can smell it as soon as you open the bottle. It is not recommended to run the engine with these additives for more than 20 minutes because they destroy the oil film on the surfaces of friction and cause extreme wear. Not to mention that you still lose 100% of metal in the oil using these flushes. They may be aggressive to gaskets, seals etc. and they cause the damage of ignition and emission system sensors.
More about *cenzored brand name*:
Dosage and package:
*blah-blah-blah*
DO NOT USE IN AUTOMATIC GEARBOX.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Introduce the necessary amount of *cenzored brand name* into a warm mechanism with old oil through the oil fill neck or oil measuring hole.
2. Start the engine and let it idle for minimum 10–15 minutes or drive 20 kilometers.
In case if you do not flush engine every oil change — drive 200–300 km. Overdrive makes sense up to 1000km.
3. Change oil and oil filter.
For maximum effect use with each oil change.
Compatible with all the types of automotive oil.
Does not contain acid, acetone, or dissolvent.
Safe formula. Friendly with seals, gaskets, other non-metal materials, oxygen sensors and catalytic converters.
*cenzored brand name* technology is protected with patents
_____________________________________________
To my mind the flushing mashine is still good if yo uknow that the engine is full of shit. Do it once and than you don't need to go for such expensive thing.
All the rest of information is true and if the described technology works as it says than the product is very good. I'll try it on my Honda.
_____________________________________________
*cenzored brand name* complex flush is recommended for hot and dusty weather conditions.
Perfect for flushing the lubricating system of gasoline and diesel engines of
all types (including those with turbo) and gear box assemblies. Added into the oil before change.
Removes all contaminations and tar sediments in oil channels and takes them away from the system with used oil. Neutralizes acids. Eliminates the clicking sound of hydraulic valve compensators. «Unsticks» the VTEC systems. Due to *cenzored brand name* restores up to 70 % of the lost metal.
It is used with every oil change as a preventive flushing and anti-wear protection.
Compatible with all oil types. It is also applied as an adaptive flushing when you change the oil of certain viscosity to the oil of different viscosity or different sort (e.g. from mineral to synthetic), or different brand.
Why does *cenzored brand name* contains the *cenzored brand name*?
Every time you change used oil you move away small metal parts which have been abraded from different rubbing surfaces (ring – cylinder, camshaft – pusher, etc.).
Formerly it was an irreplaceable loss for the engine itself and forthcoming repair could be figured out by the number of oil changes. Thus 4 liters of used oil contain about 3 grams of metal. The calculation is very simple. The reason for major repair is the loss of about 100 grams of metal in the engine with working volume 2000 cc. But now due to the invention of *cenzored brand name* it is possible to return up to 70% of the lost metal. That is why *cenzored brand name* formula contains parts of *cenzored brand name*. During the short period of action they have time to find and return nearly all the smallest parts of metal using them as a building material for renewed coating in places of probable wear. Now the lifespan of engine parts will be much longer as they are protected with *cenzored brand name*.
There are three options which are available on the market now for flushing the engine:
-flushing oil
-flushing machine
-flushing additives (5-20 minutes flush)
Why *cenzored brand name* is better than flushing oil? *cenzored brand name* does not destabilize synthetic oils.As you know, flushing oils are mineral-base oils and when you drain flushing oil there's still approximately 100-150ml left in the engine which is enough to destabilize synthetic oil. Flushing oils do not contain *cenzored brand name* which means that 70% of metal which you could return will be drained. You cannot drive on flushing oil. With *cenzored brand name* you can drive up to 1000km without harm to your engine. This means that you will not seat in the waiting room but enjoy going wherever you want.
Why *cenzored brand name* is better than flushing machine?
Flushing machine uses flushing oil (see above). It also takes about one hour of your time. And any educated engineer will say that it is not really right to flush the engine while it is not running. It is a fact that the oil channels open and close at the certain positions of the crankshaft. So flushing machine flushes the walls of the crankcase and oil channels which "happened to be open" but it does nothing to the surfaces of friction and you lose 100% of metal which is in the oil. In addition to that - flushing machine service is very expensive.
Why *cenzored brand name* is better than "5-20 minutes flush"?
Those flushes are based on acetone or acid or dissolvent. It is simple - you can smell it as soon as you open the bottle. It is not recommended to run the engine with these additives for more than 20 minutes because they destroy the oil film on the surfaces of friction and cause extreme wear. Not to mention that you still lose 100% of metal in the oil using these flushes. They may be aggressive to gaskets, seals etc. and they cause the damage of ignition and emission system sensors.
More about *cenzored brand name*:
Dosage and package:
*blah-blah-blah*
DO NOT USE IN AUTOMATIC GEARBOX.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Introduce the necessary amount of *cenzored brand name* into a warm mechanism with old oil through the oil fill neck or oil measuring hole.
2. Start the engine and let it idle for minimum 10–15 minutes or drive 20 kilometers.
In case if you do not flush engine every oil change — drive 200–300 km. Overdrive makes sense up to 1000km.
3. Change oil and oil filter.
For maximum effect use with each oil change.
Compatible with all the types of automotive oil.
Does not contain acid, acetone, or dissolvent.
Safe formula. Friendly with seals, gaskets, other non-metal materials, oxygen sensors and catalytic converters.
*cenzored brand name* technology is protected with patents
_____________________________________________
To my mind the flushing mashine is still good if yo uknow that the engine is full of shit. Do it once and than you don't need to go for such expensive thing.
All the rest of information is true and if the described technology works as it says than the product is very good. I'll try it on my Honda.
-
AutoMaster
- UB Junior Member
- Posts:30
- Joined:17 Jul 2009, 11:13 am
PMdocaam wrote:Can you please post the link where you copied this from? .... lots of stars causing headache in reading this LOL
-
AutoMaster
- UB Junior Member
- Posts:30
- Joined:17 Jul 2009, 11:13 am
GTtwinCam: 
all depends on the pocket size and personal opinion
Exquisite: No idea about Abu Dhabi. I think ADNOC should look into having a motor flush in shops or at oil change.
How to know about sludge? ... First of all it's better to know how to avoid it and keep the engine tidy. But if you have to check -it's easy. Open the oil cap and look inside - the color of the engine has to be light metallic/light yellow etc. If it's brown or dark - get suspicious. Also if you change the oil and it becomes dark very quickly - get suspicious. Normally oils become dark/brownish after about 3000 km.
All above is about gasoline engines. The oil in diesel engines becomes dark very quickly but it means nothing. And there are diesel engines of SHPD Euro-4 type that are ment by manufacturer to go for 140000-160000 km without oil change
(you need a special diesel oil though)
all depends on the pocket size and personal opinion Exquisite: No idea about Abu Dhabi. I think ADNOC should look into having a motor flush in shops or at oil change.
How to know about sludge? ... First of all it's better to know how to avoid it and keep the engine tidy. But if you have to check -it's easy. Open the oil cap and look inside - the color of the engine has to be light metallic/light yellow etc. If it's brown or dark - get suspicious. Also if you change the oil and it becomes dark very quickly - get suspicious. Normally oils become dark/brownish after about 3000 km.
All above is about gasoline engines. The oil in diesel engines becomes dark very quickly but it means nothing. And there are diesel engines of SHPD Euro-4 type that are ment by manufacturer to go for 140000-160000 km without oil change
(you need a special diesel oil though)