AUDIO SETUP

Audio/video systems, electronics, GPS, seats, fabrics etc.

Moderator: Neo

User avatar
Neo
Moderator
Posts: 1458
Joined: 03 Jun 2006, 8:58 pm
Vehicle: 2005 Hyundai Coupe
Location: Abudhabi
Contact:

Post by Neo » 24 Jul 2006, 2:13 am

I am pastin the link to the thread from which this all started!

viewtopic.php?p=26377

I will answer ur questions
k ... i ll ask my audio guy abt tha capacitors ... n yeah wht do the crossover actually do ?? any particular brand of capacitors u suggest ... n wht rating ?? coz NEO suggested a 1 FARAD would do ..
A fully functional crossover is an electronic cirucuit consistin mainly of Capcitors(Tweeters, midrange) and induction coil(Subwoofers).

There is active and passive Crossovers which is out of the topic.

These are used to differenciate the sound frequency.
Easily explained by,
a High pass filter is used to connect to ur tweeters and
low pass for ur woofers,
Midlevel or Band pass for ur midrange speakers.

Otherwise there will be too much current and low frequency enterin the Tweeters and midrane speakers which can damage them and make audio terrible.

If u look carefully on a oval 3 way speaker u mite be able to spot the capacitor on the tweeters and other midrange speakers

If ur going to waste money on a capacitor, go for atleast 1Farad!

n whts the SPL ... as u mentioned "the SPL of ur sub can be increased wit a monoBlock AMP and capacitor. "

SPL : sound pressure level, i will try explainin it wit an example.

Lets say there is a pond wit water filled
Size of the pond is equal to the watts of the sub.
Bigger pond means bigger watts.

Consider u throw a stone into the middle of the pond which will create ripples moving outward.
Size of the stone is equal to the watts of the amp.
Bigger stone means powerful amp which means better ripple.

IF u throw a small pebble, the ripple wont even reach the end and it will die off. IF u throw a moderate stone, it will reach the end, bigger stone will yeild better results. However, consider there is meteore which falls into the pond, the whole water will get splashed out.

Now tats it... Meteore can be compared to an amp having more RMS watts than the SUB.

Here the ripple is the SPL, i hope u guessed that.
SPL is the bass that u will feel, the effect that u get by having powerful amp.

Dont worry ur subs arent underpowered.
Last edited by Neo on 01 Sep 2006, 8:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Looking for Car audio Information
http://www.neoglow.net/forum
Want to see the rear car audio systems
http://www.facebook.com/neoglow

User avatar
xheartx77
UB Dedicated Member
Posts: 319
Joined: 15 Jun 2006, 6:33 pm
Location: SHARJAH, UAE

Post by xheartx77 » 25 Jul 2006, 7:08 pm

hmmm ... NEO nice eg. .. got the entire thingy ...

all u mean to say is tht ... if the AMP RMS > (greater than) SUB RMS ... u get better sound ... than an AMP RMS < (lesser than) SUB RMS

n yeah 'bout the batteries ... would surely go for a 2nd one ... n mite check the prices for a performance ... if affordable ... will get one .. or else will get a AC DELCO with higher power level than my current stock battery ...

the crossover ur talkin abt. is in the speakers ... yup i've seen them ... n they'r also mentioned in the speaker spec's ... abt crossover freq. or sumthin ...

i've seen another crossover ... its a diff. device separately sold ... sumwht a cube in shape ..

anywayz no troubles ... will check all of them out soon ... n btw u comin for the meet yeah ?? plzzz do turn up ...

User avatar
Neo
Moderator
Posts: 1458
Joined: 03 Jun 2006, 8:58 pm
Vehicle: 2005 Hyundai Coupe
Location: Abudhabi
Contact:

Post by Neo » 25 Jul 2006, 7:28 pm

It was considered the best to have an amp ratin powerfull than the sub rating.
Tat is not the case now.
Reason being.
Earlier, there used to be no way to find the actual RMS of the amp becoz it used to be given in PMPO.
The trend for AMP: Divide the PMPO rating 4 or 2 to get the RMS.
The trend for SUb: Divide the PMPO rating 2 or 3 to get the RMS.

For example: 1500W Fosgate amp RMS output is only 500W.
However 1400W Sony Explod woofer has RMS Capability of 800W.

As u can see the difference from the example above.
1500W from an AMP is the not the actual RMS and comparitivily
1400W from is around 800W which is more than the Amplifier RMS output. So there was a general Rule to have AMP which have more power to get the max out of a woofer.
Like havin a 2000W amp which mite have 800W RMS to match The subwoofer RMS of 800W.

The scenario now.
Most Branded AMPS now follow the CEA power Amplifier Standard.
This is a commitee formed for the benifit of the consumers.
Now any amp which is CEA tested can be compared wit another amp which is CEA certified.
For example : A RF amp which is 500W can be compared wit a sony 500W coz these are being tested to ensure there is so much power being produced. No bullshit.


In short. When ur going for an amp and subwoofer. Check for RMS values.
And let the AMP be equal or a bit less than the rating on the sub.

U mite also see a term which says impedence... measured in OHMs!

Crossover!
The ones u see on the oval speakers are the basic crossovers(crappy). And u guessed right about the cube or box type. These are advanced and for audiophiles.
Component speaker system is based on these type of crossovers.
The speaker output is connected to the crossover and from the cross over to the respective speakers.
Last edited by Neo on 19 Aug 2006, 11:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Looking for Car audio Information
http://www.neoglow.net/forum
Want to see the rear car audio systems
http://www.facebook.com/neoglow

User avatar
xheartx77
UB Dedicated Member
Posts: 319
Joined: 15 Jun 2006, 6:33 pm
Location: SHARJAH, UAE

Post by xheartx77 » 25 Jul 2006, 7:52 pm

NEO ... tht's y i wondered y u went for a SONY XPLOD woofer ... n the CEA was sumthin i had no idea about ... sure to check for it in the future ... coz i bought a pair of ABSOLUTE speakers which mentioned 600W ... i got totally crazy when i heard tht n got a pair for the rear n a pair of 350W for the front doors ... but when i installed them ... they were more BS than my stock speakers ... got ripped by the shopkeeper ... also a friend of mine who saw this stuff got the same pairs n got screwed ... but his ABSOLUTE SUB n CAPACITOR was gud in performance ...

seriously his single ABSOLUTE SUB was damn heavy (magnet wieght) to carry n was impossible to fit in a TUBE ... he had a box built for it which took up all the place in the rear ... n rocked the world mad ... his rear spoiler got loose n interior also shaked wid the bass... n when compared to mine is equal to my 2 PIONEER SUBS ..

sorry got carried away in stories of my own ... would like to ask u ... if u hav any idea bout my AMPS n SUBS RMS ???

n 'bout the crossovers ... i've seen one in a shop , will ask him if its cheap will get tht tooo .. .
n yea buddy .. u comin yeah for the meet ??

User avatar
Neo
Moderator
Posts: 1458
Joined: 03 Jun 2006, 8:58 pm
Vehicle: 2005 Hyundai Coupe
Location: Abudhabi
Contact:

Post by Neo » 26 Jul 2006, 12:17 am

xheartx77 wrote:NEO ... tht's y i wondered y u went for a SONY XPLOD woofer ... n the CEA was sumthin i had no idea about ... sure to check for it in the future ... coz i bought a pair of ABSOLUTE speakers which mentioned 600W ... i got totally crazy when i heard tht n got a pair for the rear n a pair of 350W for the front doors ... but when i installed them ... they were more BS than my stock speakers ... got ripped by the shopkeeper ... also a friend of mine who saw this stuff got the same pairs n got screwed ... but his ABSOLUTE SUB n CAPACITOR was gud in performance ...

seriously his single ABSOLUTE SUB was damn heavy (magnet wieght) to carry n was impossible to fit in a TUBE ... he had a box built for it which took up all the place in the rear ... n rocked the world mad ... his rear spoiler got loose n interior also shaked wid the bass... n when compared to mine is equal to my 2 PIONEER SUBS ..

sorry got carried away in stories of my own ... would like to ask u ... if u hav any idea bout my AMPS n SUBS RMS ???

n 'bout the crossovers ... i've seen one in a shop , will ask him if its cheap will get tht tooo .. .
n yea buddy .. u comin yeah for the meet ??
Actually I had an Blaupunkt TSW300 sub. (Its Peak Power was 600w)
Its the transparant carbon moulded sub.
I paid a lot for it and i was pretty cool untill I brought the Sony xplod amp.
It jst took a day for me to burn the sub!!! Yes it blew up.
Then i brought the sony Xplod sub coz i didn hav money to pick up an expensive sub.

For all AMP and related equipments, which is new (2006), check if it has a CEA logo on it. Now dont be bothered coz there aint a CEA logo. It isnt mandatory, its somethin a manufacturer can choose to hav or not.

Speakers are mechanical devices and are prone to fail sooner than the Capacitors!!! LOL! i bet the Capacitor will have less capacitace than the rating. I havent worked on ABSOLUTE brand.

I already mentiond about ur amp lil wonder.
NO. OF CHANNELS 4
RMS @ 4 Ohms (Watts) 60 x 4
RMS @ 2 Ohms (Watts) 120 x 4
RMS Bridged @ 4 Ohms (Watts) 480 x 1
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY (Hz) 20 - 20K

However, tell me the model number of ur pioneer 12 inch 1000W sub.
Roughly ur sub wud be 500W RMS.

If ur going for the crossover, go for the whole component speaker system.
Dont jst buy the cross over. The whole setup is better tuned for the specific crossover.


Nothing that comes cheap lasts long or sounds good, especially in car audio.
I learned it the hard way..
Looking for Car audio Information
http://www.neoglow.net/forum
Want to see the rear car audio systems
http://www.facebook.com/neoglow

User avatar
speedy
UB Junior Member
Posts: 66
Joined: 17 Jul 2006, 12:44 pm
Location: hamriyah

Post by speedy » 28 Jul 2006, 4:54 pm

brother neo i hav a mustang ok
so i hav buyed a big sub or woofer tube of goldby it is about 700 wats
2 big woofers of about 800 watts each of jbl whoose grade is rms
4 big tape loud speakers of 1000 watts each from sony n panasonic
4 sub woofer of pmpo grade thy r 500 watts each of pioneer n kenwood
2 car speakers of 480 watts from sony explod
ths all i buy for 3570 dhs
but now i m going to buy a amplifier so sugguest me neo which amplifier will suit for theese things
the shop keeper said buy 3 jbl amplifiers it will make ur car n make u deff
so i stop to buy thm i say u wat i buy

User avatar
Neo
Moderator
Posts: 1458
Joined: 03 Jun 2006, 8:58 pm
Vehicle: 2005 Hyundai Coupe
Location: Abudhabi
Contact:

Post by Neo » 28 Jul 2006, 7:39 pm

speedy wrote:brother neo i hav a mustang ok
so i hav buyed a big sub or woofer tube of goldby it is about 700 wats
2 big woofers of about 800 watts each of jbl whoose grade is rms
4 big tape loud speakers of 1000 watts each from sony n panasonic
4 sub woofer of pmpo grade thy r 500 watts each of pioneer n kenwood
2 car speakers of 480 watts from sony explod
ths all i buy for 3570 dhs
but now i m going to buy a amplifier so sugguest me neo which amplifier will suit for theese things
the shop keeper said buy 3 jbl amplifiers it will make ur car n make u deff
so i stop to buy thm i say u wat i buy
Whoa!!! I lost u in line 3 lol!!!
Were u plannin to start an car audio customization business.
Therez more subs wit u than a new showroom.
Back to the topic...

U must first tell me wats ur plan...
1) IF ur lookin forward to build a custom SPL Competition car, then I cant help u much thru the forum. And the car wont be feasible for everyday use.
2) If ur lookin forward to have a high SPL showoff car which u wanna drive and want urself to heard a from a mile away, then i wud say u got the wrong set of subs.
3) If ur lookin forward to have a loud system, with good bass and decent spl, this will work.

But i wonder, why so many subs, 2 wud be fine for ur car, at most four. Unless u want to mould these subs to the door, but then u need only 8inch shallow mount subs for that purpose.

Please keep the tape loudspeaker outta this business. It has no place here.

I am not aware of goldby brand.

Lets say we keep
4 Subs in ur trunk, (lets say 500W each : 4 x 500 = 2000W)
2 comp speakers in the backside, (u dont have these) (2 x 300 = 600W)
2 comp speakers in the front, (u dont have these either) (2 x 300 = 600w)

Components speakers covering full range.

Total Watts 3200W RMS

This will blow u out of the car...

AMPs recommended wud be
1 x T20001bd (2000W Rockford fosgate amp) 2000W @ 1 ohm (monoblock)
1 x P850.4 (850W Rockford Fosgate amp) 100W x 4 @ 4 ohms
2 X CPCD10-03 (1 Farad Digital Capacitor)
2 X CP4CKDS (4 guage complete wiring kit)


U wil definitely need to upgrade the alternator and battery.
Plus therez another set of features that needs to implemented and followed..
I cant talk about that.. trade secret.. heheh~~~
Looking for Car audio Information
http://www.neoglow.net/forum
Want to see the rear car audio systems
http://www.facebook.com/neoglow

User avatar
speedy
UB Junior Member
Posts: 66
Joined: 17 Jul 2006, 12:44 pm
Location: hamriyah

Post by speedy » 29 Jul 2006, 12:01 am

Lets say we keep
4 Subs in ur trunk, (lets say 500W each : 4 x 500 = 2000W)
2 comp speakers in the backside, (u dont have these) (2 x 300 = 600W)
2 comp speakers in the front, (u dont have these either) (2 x 300 = 600w)

these thing u said so buddy my car will hav good sound system but my question is tht instead of 2 comp speakers of 300 watts for back i can put 2 big tape speakers from sony
n in foward speaker i can put 2 speakers of 480 watts on side front doors ok
so ths idea is good
so now my car will get ths things
4 subwoofer will get into my trunk
out of 4 big tape speakers 2 will use in back
2 speakers of 480
1 sub woofer tube on back seat
so buddy now u say wat i put for these

User avatar
Neo
Moderator
Posts: 1458
Joined: 03 Jun 2006, 8:58 pm
Vehicle: 2005 Hyundai Coupe
Location: Abudhabi
Contact:

Post by Neo » 29 Jul 2006, 12:34 am

speedy wrote:Lets say we keep
4 Subs in ur trunk, (lets say 500W each : 4 x 500 = 2000W)
2 comp speakers in the backside, (u dont have these) (2 x 300 = 600W)
2 comp speakers in the front, (u dont have these either) (2 x 300 = 600w)

these thing u said so buddy my car will hav good sound system but my question is tht instead of 2 comp speakers of 300 watts for back i can put 2 big tape speakers from sony
n in foward speaker i can put 2 speakers of 480 watts on side front doors ok
so ths idea is good
so now my car will get ths things
4 subwoofer will get into my trunk
out of 4 big tape speakers 2 will use in back
2 speakers of 480
1 sub woofer tube on back seat
so buddy now u say wat i put for these
4 subs is enuff to kill u!
and additional tube sub in ur back seat????why???

I gotta say, this is something silly that i have noticed here.
Cheap attempt to recreate the spl effect.
Pls dont do such things and spoil the setup.

And home speakers impedence and power ratings are differnt.
If u connect then to the stereo or amp u wont get the desired effect...
Plus, it mite even burn out.
Choice is urs.
Looking for Car audio Information
http://www.neoglow.net/forum
Want to see the rear car audio systems
http://www.facebook.com/neoglow

User avatar
speedy
UB Junior Member
Posts: 66
Joined: 17 Jul 2006, 12:44 pm
Location: hamriyah

Post by speedy » 29 Jul 2006, 4:51 pm

so brother i hav done it
i didnt put tube n by the way it was big so it was not fiting in my back seat
nn i hav put big tape speakers in my reciever not in amp
so about ur amplifier n capacitor n all the other things i hav buyed with my calculations so it charge me 1890dhs
nnn thn i lissened the song with new system i love it nnn police cought n said lissened in low voice
so buddy thank u for givin me cool instruction

User avatar
dubaistyle
UB Junior Member
Posts: 11
Joined: 06 Aug 2006, 12:05 pm

Post by dubaistyle » 06 Aug 2006, 12:26 pm

hey howz it goin, im workin on my cars sound system and im kinda confused abt if having different impedance speakers for front and back would make a huge difference, although i will be powering the 4 speakers and 2 tweeters from a 4ohm amp though.

For front i have- Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 - 100 RMS 4 ohm impendance
For back i have- Infinity Kappa 693.7l -110w RMS 2 ohm impendance
Amp- Infinity 7541A - 111 watts RMS X 4 Channel at 4 Ohms

Sub- JL 13W7
Amp- JL 1000/1 Mono Class D amp
Capacitor- Rockford Fosgate 1 farad Cap

User avatar
Neo
Moderator
Posts: 1458
Joined: 03 Jun 2006, 8:58 pm
Vehicle: 2005 Hyundai Coupe
Location: Abudhabi
Contact:

Post by Neo » 07 Aug 2006, 2:12 am

Hey man, I did a quick study on ur system and I came up wit the following details to ensure maximum performance and clarity of such a system.

One word for this combination: Awesome!

I wonder who picked up these components coz there are perfectly matching and made to perform. But the output clarity is greatly dependent on the installation.
I have no clue on which car ur gonna install. Wat ever it is, make sure the following is taken care of.

1) If ur car battery is less that 60Amp, Upgrade battery.
2) If the negative battery wire connected from the battery to the body as earth is less than 4AWG, upgrade to 2AWG
3) U can run a single positive Wire running of 2AWG from battery to AMPs
4) If u cant find 2 AWG wires run 2 wires, Go for 8 AWG for the Infinity amp and 4AWG wire for the JL audio amp, each wit fuses.
5) Mount the amps wit enough ventillation and as mentioned in the amp details
6) Connect the negative cable of 4AWG from the JL audio amp and 8AWG from the Infinity Amp directly to metal body (shorter length, better)
7) Try to maintain the box volume for the sub, becoz it has great important. And try to have ported enclosure.
8 ) Try to keep the recommended setting for the amp as mentioned below, sometimes changes might be necessary to tune if for specific cars.
9) If ur going for the 2AWG cable from the postive battery terminal, have a distribution block near the amp to divide it into 4AWG and 8AWG wires for the amps.
10) The main fuse must be around 180A if it goes thru single 2 AWG wire. (it might be tough to find such a fuse)
11) I would recommend a capacitor more than 1 Farad since the total setup is around 2000W.
12) Dampning the interior body is necessary, or else be prepared to hav vibrations makin more noise than ur sub.
13) Try to have a port into the car if ur mounting the sub in the trunk. I mean having a slot on the rear parcel tray.

The points above will be normally taken care by an expert coz he knows these things. I am jst making sure, ur aware and u do a checklist in the end.

Note: AWG is the measurement of wire guage, lower AWG means thicker wire. So 2AWG wire will be much thicker than 8AWG permitting more current to pass... Hope u got the idea.

Details
--------
Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1
6.5" Component System
Frequency Response 75Hz - 23Khz
Power handling 100W RMS, 400w Peak
Min Amp output Req 35W RMS
Impedanace 4 Ohms
Front door installation


Infinity Kappa 693.7i
6" x 9" 3 way
Frequency Response 35Hz - 25Khz
Power Handling 110W RMS, 330W Peak
Impedance 2 ohms
Rear parcel tray installation


Infinity Reference 7541A 520 W AMP for speakers
Maximum Current Draw 85A
Minimum Wire Guage 8AWG
Min Impedance for Stereo : 2ohms
Min Impedance for Bridged : 4ohms
Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 111W RMS x 4
Power Output @ 2 Ohms : 139W RMS x 4
Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 278W Rms x 2


You dont have to worry about ur rear speakers being 2 ohms becoz the amp supports 2 ohms setup.
Your combined output wud be as follows
Front speakers : 111W RMS x 2
Rear speakers : 139W RMS x 2


JL Audio 13W7-D1.5 Sub
13 inch Dual Coil
Power Handling 1000w RMS
Recommended Enclosure : Ported wit Slot type port
Recommended Enclosure Net Volume: 67.5L
Impedance @ parallel : 0.75 ohms therotical (0.6 ohms)
Impedance @ Series : 3 ohms therotical (2.41 Ohms)
Net Weight : 23.6Kg


For the amp below u will have to go for series connection on ur Voice coil of the sub for an effective 3ohm Impedance so that ur amp will support.

JL Audio 1000/1
Monoblock Class D Sub Amplifier
Maximum Current Draw 100A
Minimum Wire Guage 4AWG
Min Impedance : 1.5Ohms
Max Impedance : 4ohms
Power output @ 1.5 - 4 ohms : 1000W RMS x 1
Optimal Mounting : Amp Vertically with heat sink fins pointing upwards
Recommended Speaker wire Guage : 8AWG
Recommended setting for Infrasonic Filter : ON (Ported)
Recommended Frequency : 25 hz (ported)
Recommended Amp Low pass filter (Mode/slope) : 24db
Recommended Amp Low pass Filter (Filter Freq): 85hz


I know this mite look confusing, but this is important, and i hope ur getting some good professionals to install this.
This setup aint a joke and give me and idea how much u paid for each component. If u can.

Good luck, i wish to see this installed. Also mention the HU...

Incase I missed something, ask... I got too excited...
Looking for Car audio Information
http://www.neoglow.net/forum
Want to see the rear car audio systems
http://www.facebook.com/neoglow

User avatar
dubaistyle
UB Junior Member
Posts: 11
Joined: 06 Aug 2006, 12:05 pm

Post by dubaistyle » 07 Aug 2006, 6:37 am

lol, thnx for the reply, hey i was just browsing my options, how is the rockford fosgate amp T20001bd for the 13w7 compared to 1000/1 Jl amp?, and yeah most of the things you suggested ill make sure i get em done, yeah cool tips abt the amp kit too ill keep that in mind, so far the system is costing me alot, however i have alot of sources and friends so to give you a rough idea, its costing me half of the original, like probably around 7000dhs which is a great price for this kind of sound system, i got an alpine DVA 9861 to add icing on the cake and yeah all this is goin in a 99 accord

User avatar
Neo
Moderator
Posts: 1458
Joined: 03 Jun 2006, 8:58 pm
Vehicle: 2005 Hyundai Coupe
Location: Abudhabi
Contact:

Post by Neo » 07 Aug 2006, 7:54 pm

Rockford Fosgate T20001BD
Monoblock Amp
Maximum Current Draw 250A
Minimum Wire Guage 1AWG
Min Impedance : 1.5 Ohms
Max Impedane : 4 Ohms
Power output @ 4Ohms : 750W x 1
Power output @ 2Ohms : 1500W x 1
Power output @ 1Ohm : 2000W x 1


Lets say u use the JL Audio sub,
Ur mus go for the series connection on the Dual coil having effective 3ohms and hence ur Sub will be driven @ 1000w (Appoximation)

Maybe u cud go for the Fosgate Sub instead. Like the one below.
Rockford Fosgate T212D4 Power T2
12" 4-ohm Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer
Power handling 1000w RMS, 2000W Peak
Recommended Enclosure : 63.7 L (Ported)
Impedance @ parallel : 2 Ohms
Impedance @ series : 8 Ohms


So the sub will be driven @ 1500w when u opt for Parallel 2 ohms setup.
If ur this crazy...
Go for two RF subs.
Have the DVC connected in series and the subs in parallel having an effective 2 Ohms. But then the enclosure needs to much bigger, dunno if ur accord can take it.
The good thing about the RF amp is, it can be daisy chained, atleast two amps can be bridged using bd sync cable and master and slave settings. But i dont think u wud need another amp inside coz this will kill u.

And u will have to upgrade ur battery to yellow top and high amp alternator. Plus have a wiring of 1 or 0 AWG. Coz wit two amps u will have more than 300Amps requirement. hehehe!!!

Stick wit the first setup we discussed, unless ur crazy... and look out for 25farad cap in this case.


Cool price.... Post pics after the installation is done.... And lemme know who does the work...
Looking for Car audio Information
http://www.neoglow.net/forum
Want to see the rear car audio systems
http://www.facebook.com/neoglow

User avatar
xheartx77
UB Dedicated Member
Posts: 319
Joined: 15 Jun 2006, 6:33 pm
Location: SHARJAH, UAE

Post by xheartx77 » 08 Aug 2006, 12:42 pm

nice info ... dude ...
GOT AN IDEA ... y not open up an audio shop ... wid VINYLL support also ... coz im lookin into such stuff ... even though dont hav the cash for such plans ...

n yea .. nice setup ... am i gettin jealous of u already ... nah jokin ... would be nice to hear ur ride's sound after its all done ...

best of luck ... hmmm n yea u could install all this frm my audio guy ...

SAQIB RIAZ Tr. EST.
06 - 5387217
050 - 5866146
near SHJ CRICKET STADIUM

jus giv him a call n check wid him ... coz he's really professional at such stuff .. specific wiring n detailed connections ... thts if ur intrested ..



Post Reply